Water heaters are a major investment. If yours is nearing the end of its lifespan, it might make more sense to replace it than repair it.
Before you start repairing your water heater, consult with a Carter professional plumber to determine whether the problem can be repaired or if it makes more sense to replace your unit. Common problems include:
Thermostat issues can affect your hot water in a number of ways. Some are easy to solve, while others require a professional.
Regardless of the cause, it is important to check for safety concerns before beginning. First, shut off the electricity to your heater in the breaker panel. Then, locate the screws that hold the electric access panel to your heater and remove them, using caution. You will then want to turn the breaker to your heater back on, but before doing so, use a multimeter or voltage tester to determine whether or not the thermostats are still live. It should read no more than one volt; if not, you will need to call in an electrician before proceeding.
You can also test the upper and lower heating elements to see if they are functioning correctly. For example, if you’re consistently running out of hot water, it could be because the upper thermostat isn’t working properly. Another possible sign of a thermostat issue is if it takes longer than usual for your faucets to “wake up” and funnel hot water into your home.
If your gas water heater has a pilot light, you can try relighting it yourself. However, before attempting this, it’s imperative to read the safety manual that comes with your heater. There are real dangers associated with playing around with gas water heaters without the proper precautions.
A faulty thermocouple is another common thermostat problem. This device is responsible for detecting whether or not the pilot light is lit, and it in turn turns on your gas control valve. If your pilot light won’t stay lit or flickers on and off, you will likely need to replace the thermocouple.
Testing your water heater’s thermostat is a little more complicated than testing the heating elements, but it can be done at home with a few tools and some basic knowledge of circuitry. You will need to shut off the power to your electric water heater, remove the appropriate access panel, detach the power wires from each element, and then touch one meter lead to each of the element’s terminals and the other to the element nut or tank body. The meter display should read Ohms of resistance if the element has continuity, or no reading at all if it is shorted.
Leaks
Water heater leaks are not something to ignore because they can lead to extensive damage to your home and cause mold and mildew. Leaks usually indicate a damaged tank or faulty plumbing connections. However, they may also be caused by a damaged or rusted water heater element. No matter where the leak is coming from, a professional should be called to perform an inspection and perform any necessary repairs.
If your water heater is leaking from the top, the source is likely either the cold water inlet or hot water outlet. These pipes are where the water enters your hot water tank and is pushed out to your faucets for use. These pipes are constantly moving water in and out, which can loosen the connecting points over time. If you notice a pool of water near the top of your water heater, it’s important to turn off the power and water supply to the unit before trying any repairs yourself. Stand on a step stool or ladder, and carefully check the plumbing pipes above your water heater for any signs of leaking water.
Leaks from the side of your water heater are typically caused by a broken drain valve or the temperature and pressure relief valve, which releases excess pressure on the tank. If the drain valve is leaking, this can be replaced fairly easily by a plumber. However, if the tank itself is leaking, you’ll need to replace it.
If your water heater is leaking from the bottom, this is more serious and indicates that the inner part of the tank has deteriorated. It’s not uncommon for a tank to reach this point after 10 years of service. It’s possible that the deterioration is due to mineral deposits forming on the inside of the tank, but in most cases, the leaks are irreversible and will require replacing the water heater. Leaking from the bottom of your water heater can cause flooding and structural damage to your home, so it’s important to get it repaired as soon as possible.
Water Smells or Discoloration
If you notice a sulfurous or decayed smell or a bad taste in your water, this may be caused by bacteria growing inside your tank. This is likely a sign that your water heater has not been properly flushed or sanitized or that the anode rod (a 3- to 5-foot metal rod inside the tank that diminishes corrosion) is degraded. A professional plumber can flush and sanitize your water heater, replace the anode rod, or install a new water softening system to eliminate these odors and tastes.
Smelly or discolored water can also be caused by hydrogen sulfide gas in your plumbing pipes, which is usually a sign that your hot water tank is corroding or has reached the end of its lifespan and needs to be replaced. This can be a major plumbing repair, but if you shut off your water heater, drain it, and flush it by running a complete heating cycle, the problem will likely resolve itself.
Dark brown or reddish water can be caused by naturally-occurring sediments in pipelines that are stirred up, usually by fire department activity near your home when they open or close a nearby water hydrant for pressure testing. However, this could also be caused by a power outage that disturbs pipeline sediments or by construction work near your home.
Temperature inconsistencies can be caused by a variety of issues, including a malfunctioning thermostat or the size of your hot water heater if you have an older model that is no longer able to meet the needs of your household. In some cases, a water heater that is too small for your home can cause dangerously hot water that puts you at risk of painful burns and scalding.
If your water is rust-colored, this is typically a sign that the tank is nearing its lifespan and will need to be replaced. It can also be a sign of a problem with your water softening system, which is designed to remove calcium and magnesium, but may instead be removing iron. The easiest way to fix this is to drain and flush your water heater, clean the softening elements (they look like fish eggs, are brown or orange, and feel spherical when rubbed between your fingers), and replace the salt and vinegar cartridge.
No Hot Water
Most people give little thought to their water heater until it stops working. Then it can throw everything off schedule and create a real disruption. There may be no hot showers, dishes won’t get cleaned, and laundry will be left unwashed. This is a problem that you can’t ignore! If your water heater isn’t producing any hot water, you’ll want to call a Carter professional right away.
Often, a lack of hot water is due to a simple thermostat issue. If the thermostat is set too high, the system will shut off and there won’t be any hot water produced. In some cases, you can fix this by turning the temperature down on the thermostat or resetting the reset button (also called the high-limit switch) to lower the heat level.
If your water heater is a gas-powered unit, and you’re not getting any hot water, there could be a pilot light issue. The pilot light is responsible for igniting the gas that allows your water to be heated. If the pilot light is out, or has gone out on you, you can relight it yourself. However, this is something that should be done only after reading the safety manual that comes with your unit, and ensuring that you are completely aware of the risks involved.
Another potential culprit of no hot water is a faulty thermocouple or gas control valve. This is a much more serious problem that requires the help of a trained technician to resolve. If you find that your gas water heater won’t turn on, make sure that the valve is fully open. You can also try turning off the power to your unit and then resetting the circuit breaker or pilot light.